First, what makes a military jacket?
Think structured silhouette, utility styling, and heavy hardware. Often designed in shades of green, khaki or washed-out black and grey, the military jacket nods to its wartime origins and creates a modern neutral that can be thrown on over anything. Classic military jackets feature ornate ‘frogging’, braided threads that sit across the placket, often topped with ornate buttons and fabric loop closures. Long sleeves, high necks and curved hems add interest to the silhouettes, and you can find military jackets in easy-going, oversized fits and with tighter, form-fitting tailoring.
Spotlight On: The History of Military Jackets
Early 00s nostalgia moved on from Y2K and dove straight into the murky world of indie sleaze, bringing the structured, utility-inspired military jacket with it. Reminiscent of 2000s indie heroes including The Libertines, The Strokes, and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, the military jacket lends any fit a carelessly curated look, best paired with straight-out-of-bed hair, faded denim and smudged eyeliner. We’ve shone a spotlight on the history of the military jacket to find out more about this essential counterculture style.
Where do they come from?
No prizes here – they come from the military. Originally designed for soldiers, military jackets offered functional, structured designs that were protective, hard-wearing and standardised across whole armies. Different styles developed based on climate and military needs, often featuring heavy wool constructions and detailed brass buttons.
No prizes here – they come from the military. Originally designed for soldiers, military jackets offered functional, structured designs that were protective, hard-wearing and standardised across whole armies. Different styles developed based on climate and military needs, often featuring heavy wool constructions and detailed brass buttons.
What happened after that?
We start to see military jackets show up across everyday styling in the 1960s and 70s, deeply associated with counterculture movements as activists and musicians outwardly rebelled against the Vietnam War. Army Surplus stores made the style practical, cheap and accessible, and the jackets were worn ironically to transform symbols of war into statements of resistance and individuality.
Artists, including Jimi Hendrix, The Clash and Kurt Cobain, all famously toted military jackets in their own unique styles. Whilst Hendrix’s glam rock aesthetic adopted the flamboyant design details of military attire - ornate frogging, heavy buttons and embellished detailing - punk and rock bands downplayed the styling, pairing army surplus styles with patches, pins, faded denim and easy-going flannels.
As the low-fi energy of the 90s rolls into the chaotic 00s, military jackets are brought into the spotlight by some of the US and UK’s most exciting indie rock bands, most famously The Libertines, who wore Red Guards Jackets on stage and whilst being snapped by the tabloids. Indie sleaze was all about nightlife, hedonism and the birth of early digital culture, featuring military jackets thrown over skinny jeans and faded vintage graphics on oversized t-shirts. You’d find military jacket slung over chairs at club nights and backstage at venues – a counterculture symbol adopted by the fashion world.
We start to see military jackets show up across everyday styling in the 1960s and 70s, deeply associated with counterculture movements as activists and musicians outwardly rebelled against the Vietnam War. Army Surplus stores made the style practical, cheap and accessible, and the jackets were worn ironically to transform symbols of war into statements of resistance and individuality.
Artists, including Jimi Hendrix, The Clash and Kurt Cobain, all famously toted military jackets in their own unique styles. Whilst Hendrix’s glam rock aesthetic adopted the flamboyant design details of military attire - ornate frogging, heavy buttons and embellished detailing - punk and rock bands downplayed the styling, pairing army surplus styles with patches, pins, faded denim and easy-going flannels.
As the low-fi energy of the 90s rolls into the chaotic 00s, military jackets are brought into the spotlight by some of the US and UK’s most exciting indie rock bands, most famously The Libertines, who wore Red Guards Jackets on stage and whilst being snapped by the tabloids. Indie sleaze was all about nightlife, hedonism and the birth of early digital culture, featuring military jackets thrown over skinny jeans and faded vintage graphics on oversized t-shirts. You’d find military jacket slung over chairs at club nights and backstage at venues – a counterculture symbol adopted by the fashion world.
How did the fashion world rework the military jacket?
In the early 00s, where there was Pete Doherty (the lead singer of The Libertines, iykyk), there was Kate Moss. As one of the it-girls of indie sleaze, Kate Moss was shot at Glastonbury in 2005, heading off to see Doherty play wearing micro shorts, a trilby and, you guessed it, an oversized military jacket. The late 2000s and early 2010s saw artists such as Beyoncé and Rihanna carry on this military jacket trend, and it’s a style that cropped up from catwalks to paparazzi pics in the years that followed.
Then it went away. But in 2025, the military jacket made a comeback. This easy, transitional layer offers the perfect throwback style to throw on and go, its cultural history delivering the perfect energy for chaotic summer plans and nights you won’t forget.
Shop our range of military jackets from UO’s own label, BDG and our favourite brands including Jaded London and Bench, for oversized, fitted, button-up and zip-through styles. Or check out Urban Renewal’s One-of-a-Kind collection to discover rare, true vintage pieces that come with a history.
In the early 00s, where there was Pete Doherty (the lead singer of The Libertines, iykyk), there was Kate Moss. As one of the it-girls of indie sleaze, Kate Moss was shot at Glastonbury in 2005, heading off to see Doherty play wearing micro shorts, a trilby and, you guessed it, an oversized military jacket. The late 2000s and early 2010s saw artists such as Beyoncé and Rihanna carry on this military jacket trend, and it’s a style that cropped up from catwalks to paparazzi pics in the years that followed.
Then it went away. But in 2025, the military jacket made a comeback. This easy, transitional layer offers the perfect throwback style to throw on and go, its cultural history delivering the perfect energy for chaotic summer plans and nights you won’t forget.
Shop our range of military jackets from UO’s own label, BDG and our favourite brands including Jaded London and Bench, for oversized, fitted, button-up and zip-through styles. Or check out Urban Renewal’s One-of-a-Kind collection to discover rare, true vintage pieces that come with a history.